Rome Night Life

Fellini's La Dolce Vita highlighted a lifestyle in which entertainment meant savoring the city's sidewalk cafes and nightclubs—and we think this is still very much true today. You'll find the locals strolling around the city at night, stopping for a cappuccino or an ice cream, encouraged even in winter by Rome's mild climate.

Enoteca Campo de' Fiori. Smoky enclave of a bohemian set: Walls are lined with shelves of wine bottles, and the floor is scattered with sawdust. In warmer months, sit outside and admire the statue of Giordano Bruno and his hooded cowl. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-2 pm and 6 pm-midnight. No credit cards. Campo de' Fiori. During mild weekends, don't be surprised if you're caught in traffic jams at 1 am. The Trastevere is great fun for those who enjoy a nice drink at a pub after dinner. But there's more to Rome nightlife than pubs: Adventurous night owls will find everything from South American music to karaoke clubs to jazz. What follows is a partial list of local hot spots; consult Wanted in Rome, an English-language entertainment guide sold at all newspaper stands, to find out who's playing where. Most bars don't accept credit cards, so be prepared with cash for an evening's entertainment.

Jazz Cafe. A cocktail bar with a sleek interior offering live music. Open noon-3 am, closed Sunday. Major credit cards. Via Zanardelli 12.

Bar della Pace. Elegant, 19th-century interior and charming hanging-ivy exterior. A bit on the expensive side, but splurge for a drink at one of the outdoor tables: The view of the narrow piazza and the Church of Santa Maria della Pace is well worth it. Open all week 9 am-2 am. No credit cards. Via della Pace 4.

Caffe' Latino. Live music (mostly blues and African-American) accompanies a good, buffet-style supper. Late at night a deejay transforms the place into a rock disco for dancing. Membership required, but it can be purchased easily at the door. Tuesday-Sunday from 10 pm into the morning hours. Via Monte Testaccio 96.

Alpheus. Cutting-edge club that stages special events, including nights dedicated to jazz, ethnic music, cabaret and theme parties. Cover 10,000 lire. Open Tuesday-Sunday 10 pm-3 am. Via del Commercio 36.

Jackie O'. Named after Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, this is an old standby. Once a favorite with the Romans of La Dolce Vita, this club is now experiencing a revival, as once again it's beloved by the locals. We think this is probably one of those places here to stay. There's a lively piano bar, disco dancing and even a restaurant. On Friday and Saturday nights there's a live band. Via Boncompagni 11.

Gilda. This remains one of the most hopping places in Rome. Famous local artists come to be seen, but there's also great dancing for common mortals to enjoy. The only drawback: The fun rarely starts before midnight; it lasts until 4 am. Via Mario de' Fiori 97.

Alexanderplatz. Well-appointed jazz club for a slightly more sedate evening. Dinner available. Open Monday-Saturday 11 pm-3 am. Via Ostia 9.

Alien. Underground disco with two large dance floors, futuristic decor and a VIP room. Open Tuesday-Sunday 11 pm-5 am. Cover 35,000 lire. Via Velletri 13.

Bossanova. Home of Brazilian music in Rome. Big-name bands and musicians frequently play there. No cover. Via degli Orti di Trastevere 43.

Angelo Azzurro. Gay-friendly place with a huge dance floor. Enjoy the nouveau art, the mirrors and statuettes. Friday is women-only night. Cover: 20,000 lire. Friday-Sunday 11 pm-4 am. Via Cardinal Merry del Val 44 (in Trastevere).

Hangar. This laid-back, gay-friendly place of cool neon-blue lights was once the home of Messallina, wife of Claudius I. Women are welcome except on Wednesday (erotic movie night), when they might feel out of place. The music is loud and the drinks are cheap. No cover. Open Wednesday-Monday 10:30 pm-2 am. Via Selci 69.

L'Alibi. The best known and most elegant gay and lesbian gathering place in Rome. Deejay spins dance music. Tuesday-Sunday 11 pm-5 am. Via Monte Testaccio 39.